Akyaka – a brief guide.

This short article consists of a very brief ‘stroll’ around Akyaka, where it is, where to go, what to do.

Akyaka is situated at the end of the beautiful Bay of Gokova, and tucked in between the sea and the Sakara Tepe mountains. This geography confines its size, and means it can never grow to any great extent in any direction, though it is now spreading towards Gokova in one direction, and houses are being built on slopes of a serious gradient.

It is approximately half way between Mugla and Marmaris, 2 towns of very different character, and just under an hour’s drive from Dalaman airport.

There are really 3 main parts to Akyaka, the beach, the river (and its restaurants), and the ‘top’ part of the village.

The ‘top’ village consists primarily of shops, including barbers (and a Turkish shave really is a holiday treat not to be missed) and some cafes / restaurants. This part of the village is perhaps more ‘local’, and the shops up here include such as hardware shops. There is also a butcher and a baker, and these are perhaps the only shops that are not replicated down by the beach. It is quite a steep walk to get up here, so unless you have a specific reason to visit, (and I always use the barber up here), or a car, you may wish to leave this until the day cools down.

The other reason to come up here is the cash machine. During the summer there is sometimes a mobile bank by the beach. If this is closed, or at other times of the year, the only source of money is this cash machine. And beware, it often runs out of cash – get there early! It takes most major debit / credit cards, and the amount it will give you will depend on your own bank’s limit, and, of course, the exchange rate. You can usually get 250YTL with no problem, any more might get refused.

Note that if you do run out of Turkish currency, most of the restaurants will happily take sterling, and at a decent rate. Your hotelier / villa owner will also usually change money for you.

Akyaka Beach

The beach is the heart of Akyaka. There is a strip of typically hard Turkish sand, covered during the summer with sun loungers, but of a reasonable size, bordered by a harbour on one side (this is where the boat trips all start), and by rock walls on the other. The beach is backed by several cafes / restaurants, who ‘own’ a block of sun loungers. Drink / eat enough and the loungers will be free, and may even be reserved for you the next day!

Most of these places are open at night as well, certainly during the peak season, and provide good food at reasonable prices, and the evening promenade along the beach is always lively. There is also a wooden block of changing rooms / toilets on the beach itself. During the evenings there are also a few stalls in the lanes leading down to the beach, selling all sorts of trinkets, ideal for a post dinner stroll.

The sea itself shelves at a wonderfully gentle rate. You can be 100 yards out, and still only have water up to your waist, so it is ideal for children. Beware the water’s edge though – you occasionally find the odd bee here, which, though it may look dead, is often still capable of a sting, so best to always wear footwear. A local tip – if you do get stung, rub a raw onion on it!

At the opposite end of the beach it is possible to hire pedalos, canoes, etc, and also to book wind-surfing lessons. Beyond this is the forest park. This costs a nominal amount to enter, but then allows you access to a rocky walk between the forest and the sea. There are further cafes along here, and various good rocks to jump off, or fish from, (the sea is of course as clear as a bell) as well as showers. You will also be surrounded by the smell of wood smoke drifting up from all the Turkish barbecues.

The Bridge Across the River

Running parallel to the beach and about 50 yards back is a road that contains a few shops and restaurants, as well as leading you back to the crossroads, which has shops, restaurants, etc, on all sides, and catering to many different tastes. This is also where you can get a taxi, (or turn left and walk up the hill to the dolmus stop, regular buses to Mugla and Marmaris), and just off seawards a fairly large car park. This leads to the harbour which contains everything from small fishing boats through various sizes of tourist boats up to large trawlers. The harbour is fed by the Azmak river, crossed by a bridge (being rebuilt this winter!) that leads to the conservation area, also well worth a stroll, and the start of the eucalyptus walk (very hot in summer). There is also a small (3 foot wide) beach all around this area, and it is usually very quiet and peaceful.

The Kofte Boats

Just at the mouth of the river are moored a couple of ‘kofte boats’. These boats sell sandwiches of either kofte, or fish in batter, which are absolutely delicious, and very cheap – feed (and water) 3 people for less than 10YTL.

Also by the car park is the open air cinema – sit on cushions and watch the latest films, albeit frequently in Turkish! Or of course stand outside and peer through the holes in the fencing……not quite as comfortable though.

A path has been built along the river. At some point, this is intended to take you all the way to the river restaurants, though at the moment you will have to leave it and rejoin the road. This takes you up past a couple of restaurants, and back to Villa Vali.

The 3rd key part of Akyaka is the area around the river restaurants. These may be reached either by the path (then road) described above, or by taking the Gokova road out of Akyaka (an easy walk, no car needed). The number of restaurants varies from year to year, but there are usually around six. Each one has its own speciality in terms of setting. They are all though on the river, some on islands, most with spotlights hitting the water, showing the ducks, geese, turtles, eels, fish, etc.

They all specialise in fish (choose your own from the chiller), as well as having the usual mix of starters, and all serving other meat dishes as well.

Although these restaurants will cost you more than those by the beach, they really are in such a delightful setting that they are well worth the small amount extra for a special night out. And the lights, and the water, and the swings, make it an ideal place for kids to keep themselves amused as well. The fact that you are by fast running water that until a short while ago was ½ way up a mountain also means it is much cooler here than elsewhere in the village. (Though, as you are by the river, beware mosquitoes!)

Gokova Bay from Akyaka Castle>

Opposite this part of the river you can also find the ruins of the castle. Follow the track up past the cistern, and follow it round to the left, and you will come across it. Sadly, it has not been at all excavated, so little is known about it, though you can easily imagine it standing sentinel over a bay that once must have flooded most of the plain in front of you.

You can also follow the road past all the restaurants, and this brings you to the rock tombs – not up to Dalyan standards, and incomplete, but interesting all the same.

The other thing that should be mentioned about Akyaka is markets. It has its own on a Wednesday (opposite the Jendarmerie), which is quite small, and worth a visit, albeit a short one. The number of stalls (especially non-food) is limited – but if they do have what you want, you will probably get it cheaper than elsewhere.

The other local market is at Gokova on a Saturday. (A local bus runs here, takes about 10 minutes). This is a major local day out, and has much more of a selection. Sit and drink cay, give your kids 20YTL, and see what they manage to come back with!

(The major markets are in Mugla and Marmaris, both on a Thursday. Marmaris has more tourist stalls, but Mugla, especially the fruit and vegetables, really is a sight to behold.)

All in all, Akyaka is an ideal holiday destination, great for both couples and families. Whilst the English are very welcome, it remains predominately a Turkish resort, and thus retains its delightful atmosphere.

The vast majority of holidaymakers return year after year, which is a testament to its ongoing appeal, and why so much of the accommodation is block booked from year to year.

If you have never visited – do. You will not be disappointed.